KhN at 17 Tverskaya, not far from where Philippov's flagship bakery once stood, leads the chain's way to finding its historical roots. It pioneers the cafe's plans to resurrect the legendary name, decor, and recipes that made it the legend it once was. Other KhN sites will soon follow suit.
Back in the day, Philippov was the baker for everyone: from the tsar's family to government officials to the local plumber. Affordable prices and quality classics, namely the popular kalatch loaf, earned him a name for himself; his business savvy earned that name longevity.
Tenacious and enterprising, he saw his company through a destructive fire and a moment of near disaster. As the story goes, a significant official and regular customer is working his way through a familiar treat: saika, a dessert bun. Finding an unwelcome ingredient within, he shrieks, "Philippov! What on earth is this doing in here?" The baker rushes over; indeed, a roach had somehow been baked into the dough. Mustering his finest poker face, Maxim assures, "That's just a raisin! A new recipe, is all!" He then bites a chunk off to prove it before racing back to his kitchen to dump raisins into the remaining batter. The innovation that arose would join the oddly purse-like kalatch as one of the master's signature products.